Mastodon Bluesky Instagram

Manhole covers

2025-10-13 19:00 GMT+13 barefooting,travel

Subtitle: A trip to Japan as depicted by feet in front of various manhole covers.

I, my hubby, and my eldest younger brother (whom I'd not seen in the flesh for over a decade) met up in Japan recently. My brother didn't want to come back to Aotearoa and I (at the time) had no plans to go to Australia, where he now lives, so we decided to meet halfway … or, rather, quite a long way away in a perpendicular tangent.

Me at the airport, wearing his newly-purchased hat. The picture is a little blurry.
Me wearing my newly-purchased hat. Apologies for the blurriness.
Me standing next to a Mario statue, except it's dressed in a black beanie and coat like Léon the Professional. In the statue's right hand is a handgun; it its left hand is a Piranha Plant in a ceramic pot.
Me standing next to Mario Léon the Professional.

We hit up Ōsaka (big and fun), Kyōto (just the Nintendo Museum), Kanazawa (beautiful), Hiroshima (Miyajima!), Matsuyama (so calm), and Tōkyō (best transport ever). Along the way, I found these manhole covers. I took photos of them.

Ōsaka

First stop: Ōsaka. This is my favourite city in Japan, granted I've only visited five. It's true what they say about people from Kansai being much more forthright in their views, less afraid to say something, less shy. It suits me much better than, say, Tōkyō.

Unfortunately, this trip was in Japanese autumn, so it was difficult to enjoy my favourite city in suffocatingly heavy humidity and overbearing heat. Just walking out of the airport made sweat run down my back; arriving at Namba Station and navigating the tunnels almost made me choke on the lack of breathable air.

Fortunately, I grew gills in time to snap this manhole.

A picture of an Ōsaka Expo 2025-themed manhole cover with the multi-eyed blue and red mascot on it. The tops of my bare feet are visible in the shot as I took the photo pointing directly down.
An Ōsaka Expo 2025-themed manhole cover

We didn't actually go to the expo. We'd take a step outside of our accommodation and instantly turn into vertical rivers. The thought of sweating out in the open, exposed area waiting in interminable queues may excite some people but not me, particularly when the aim was to look at … advertising.

A glass of green melon soda and a glass of juice.
A green melon soda and glass of juice, two lifelines in the autumn heat.
A drawing of me on canvas. It depicts a stylised version of me walking barefoot amidst some Japanese imagery (Mount Fuji, bullet train, etc.) with the text 'Footman in Japan, Doc'

A drawing of me, Footman in Japan, on canvas. Made by Hajime Ikoma.

He was sitting on a bridge in Dōtonbori selling custom drawings from about NZD$10 upwards.

My brother and I went to Universal Studios Japan, me for the second time, he for the first. We purchased the VIP express tour that went into Super Nintendo World and skipped all the queues. I highly recommend it over having to stand around in the sun, especially if you're going during the summer or autumn. We had a delightful English-speaking tour guide called Yoshi who took this photo for us.

Me and my brother at the entrance to Super Nintendo World, Universal Studios Japan. He is doing a peace sign with his right hand. I am pretending to jump like Mario.
Me and my brother at Super Nintendo World

Kyōto

Then, Kyōto at the Nintendo Museum. I didn't go in bare feet because entrance to the museum uses a lottery system; I was lucky enough to get tickets for us three on a day we planned to be in Kansai (the area where Ōsaka and Kyōto are) so I didn't want to risk ejection. I had games to play, history to look at, and hanafuda cards to paint!

A picture of a Pokémon-themed manhole cover with Pikachu running from a Game Boy and a Pokéball. The tops of my feet, wearing jandals, are visible in the shot as I took the photo pointing directly down.
A Pikachu-themed manhole cover at the Nintendo Museum in Kyōto
A collection of bottles of dye used to paint Hanafuda cards at the Nintendo Museum in Kyōto.
Some bottles of dye used to paint Hanafuda cards at the Nintendo Museum.
Placeholder: a picture of my Hanafuda cards and my husband's set.

Hiroshima

A picture of a koi-themed manhole cover with two white koi circling each other as though trapped in the pavement. The tops of my bare feet are visible in the shot as I took the photo pointing directly down.
Hiroshima

Then, Hiroshima. There were koi on the pavement near my hotel. What can I say, they were cute. Hiroshima isn't a terribly exciting city, though I'd certainly be happy to live there. It has things going on but it's much quieter than Ōsaka or Tōkyo. It felt like Wellington in that regard.

Of course, we went to Miyajima as well. We'd already visited there, so details of Miyajima in a previous post. The only difference between then and now was the stifling heat. My brother decided to walk up to the ropeway station; hubby and I waited at a café for the van that goes up, a one butt-cheek driving experience if ever there was one along some winding roads that seemed to be physically less wide than the vehicle itself.

After we made our way down the mountain, we stopped to have lunch at a local café (air con!), visited the aquarium, and then headed back to the ferry. On our way, we noticed the tide had gone out and people were venturing into the ankle-deep sea to stand under the torii. I went out as well.

The sunken torii gate cast in silhouette against the setting sun. The tide has gone out, revealing wet sand. People are gathered on the sand to walk under and around the gate.
People gathered on the sand around the gate. The sunset was gorgeous.

The view as seen from the other side of the torii gate, facing towards the island.

You can see Itsukushima shrine in the far distance.

Something that really gets my goat when I visit Japan is the other tourists. It's a bit of a cliché for Westerners going there to hold the other Westerners in disdain; it's easy to think that everybody else is loud, rude, crude, vile people making a great big nuisance of themselves whilst you're the considerate, thoughtful, tidy one.

I can't claim any superiority; whilst all the other foreigners sat in passage ways, blocked stairways, and jumped queues, I committed the heinous crime of not wearing shoes for most of the trip. I'm sure the locals found us all equally infuriating. It's just as well we're an excellent source of revenue.

Placeholder mountain
A great pet peeve of mine: people who sit on stairs and block the way.

Matsuyama

Finally, as far as manhole covers go, Matsuyama. Located in a shōtengai (covered shopping street) with a picture of Masaoka Shiki, a poet from the area. Apparently, there were some other Pokémon-themed manhole covers here, too, but the humidity demanded we stay under the shōtengai. Happily, our hotel was located directly inside it.

A picture of a Matsuyama-themed manhole cover with a depiction of Masaoka Shiki, a local poet from years ago, next to a Camellia flower in front of Matsuyama Castle. The tops of my bare feet are visible in the shot as I took the photo pointing directly down.
A manhole cover in Matsuyama depicting Masaoka Shiki, a local poet. A camellia flower and Matsuyama Castle can also be seen, both symbols of the city.
Me posing with a large tanuki statue outside the shōtengai where we stayed.
Me with a large tanuki statue outside the shōtengai where we stayed
My brother walking through a closed-up shōtengai near where we stayed. All of the shops have their shutters down.

My brother walking through a closed-up shōtengai called Gintengai, near where we stayed.

It was closed during the daytime, as is usual in Japan, but even when it opened at night many of the shops remained shuttered.

We also went to Dōgo Onsen, inspiration for the bath house in Spirited Away. It was a nice experience bathing in the hot water amidst so many men (stop it), just enjoying the warmth and the sense of shamelessness.

Dõgo Onsen, a large old-fashioned Japanese building.
Placeholder: Dōgo Onsen
Me sitting on a tatami floor dressed in a robe at Dogo Onsen.
Me sitting dressed in a robe, sitting on the tatami floor in Dõgo Onsen. This is customary before and after using the facilities, having a cup of tea and eating a biscuit

Tōkyō

I didn't take a snap of a manhole cover here, but we might as well finish the trip.

Postscript

I never realised how weirdly-shaped my feet have gotten since I gained weight and started going barefoot. Monkey toes. 🐵 Not only that, but the side of my right foot where my little toe is seems to squish outwards — but not all the time. Maybe it's a result of putting weight on it? Clearly I need to put a book on my head and improve my posture … and lose a few kilos.